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How Nanjing Ruins Every Other City

The Nanjinger - How Nanjing Ruins Every Other City

I grew up in a small town in Burgundy, France, called Nevers. It was the kind of unstimulating place that every youth would leave in a rush as soon as they graduated high school, which was pretty much what I did. Growing up, I had been to Paris and Lyon, France’s two largest cities, a few times, and I was always fascinated by the hustle and bustle proper to big cities. The tall buildings, the underground networks, the variety of people, shops, restaurants. … All of it felt to me like a world of endless opportunity.

我在法国勃艮第的一个名叫讷韦尔的小镇长大。这是那种没有刺激性的地方,每个年轻人高中毕业后都会匆匆离开,我也差不多就是这样。成长过程中,我曾多次去过法国最大的两个城市巴黎和里昂,一直对大城市特有的喧嚣着迷。高楼大厦、地下网络、形形色色的人群、商店、餐馆。 ……对我来说,这一切就像一个充满无限机会的世界。

Some time after I turned 18, I moved to England, my father’s country. I hadn’t experienced big cities yet, and I lived in small-ish towns again. Mostly I lived in Folkestone, a pleasant harbour town about an hour from London by train. I had a great group of friends there and a decent job, but something was missing. There wasn’t enough excitement in my life and I felt utterly bored living in a place that didn’t have too much to offer. London felt like the answer to this.

18 岁之后不久,我搬到了我父亲的祖国英国。我还没有经历过大城市,又住进了小城镇。我大部分时间住在福克斯通,这是一个宜人的海港小镇,距离伦敦大约一小时火车车程。我在那里有一群很棒的朋友,还有一份体面的工作,但缺少了一些东西。我的生活中没有足够的刺激,生活在一个没有太多东西可提供的地方,我感到非常无聊。伦敦感觉就是这个问题的答案。

For about 2 years, I tried very hard to find a corporate job there that matched my skills and experience, to no avail. Eventually I started thinking about moving to a big city in some faraway land and soon enough, I was reading about ESL teaching in China. 

大约两年来,我非常努力地想在那里找到一份与我的技能和经验相匹配的公司工作,但没有成功。最终,我开始考虑搬到某个遥远的地方的大城市,很快,我就读到了有关中国 ESL 教学的信息。

After having absorbed countless articles and blogs about life as an expat in China, I was ready to commit to the big move. But first I had to determine where I wanted to go in this gigantic country. I knew I wanted a big city, but considering China has over a hundred cities with 1 million+ inhabitants, I still had some research to do.

在阅读了无数关于在中国的外籍人士生活的文章和博客后,我准备好致力于这一重大举措。但首先我必须确定在这个幅员辽阔的国家我想去哪里。我知道我想要一座大城市,但考虑到中国有一百多个城市,人口超过一百万,我还有一些研究要做。

Quite quickly, Nanjing became my top choice. It seemed perfect on paper; it was modern, yet boasting lots of history; it had fancy skyscrapers, yet remained very green with many parks, lakes and even a mountain in the middle; it was big, but not oppressively so like Shanghai or Beijing; and finally, it was conveniently located a short train ride away from a number of interesting destinations. 

很快,南京就成为了我的首选。从纸面上看,它似乎很完美;但实际情况却并非如此。它是现代的,但也拥有悠久的历史;它有漂亮的摩天大楼,但仍然绿意盎然,有许多公园、湖泊,甚至中间还有一座山;它很大,但不像上海或北京那么压抑;最后,它位置便利,乘坐火车仅需很短的时间即可到达许多有趣的目的地。

Oh, and it had its own international airport. I was sold.

哦,它还有自己的国际机场。 我被卖了。

Finding a job proved to be surprisingly easy and quick. I had expected months of job hunting, but all of 20 minutes online sufficed to land the interview that got me my first job in China. I flew to Beijing first, where I had a 2-week training, during which the company tried to tell me I couldn’t go to Nanjing because the city was over-staffed. I went ballistic on the HR lady, who asked me why I was so set on Nanjing. I gave her a passionate speech on the reasons why I thought Nanjing was the perfect city for me, which convinced her to send me there. And boy, am I glad I fought that battle!

事实证明,找工作出奇地容易和快捷。我本来预计要花几个月的时间找工作,但网上的 20 分钟足以让我获得面试机会,从而获得在中国的第一份工作。我先飞到北京,在那里接受了为期两周的培训,期间公司试图告诉我不能去南京,因为南京人太多了。我对人力资源女士大发雷霆,她问我为什么如此执着于南京。我向她热情地讲述了为什么我认为南京是最适合我的城市,这说服了她送我去那里。男孩,我很高兴我参加了这场战斗!

When I finally got to Nanjing, I was instantly in love with the city. And having spent 2 weeks in Beijing beforehand made me love it even more.

当我终于到达南京时,我立刻就爱上了这座城市。事先在北京呆了两周让我更加喜欢它。

In the capital, I had felt like everything was grey and dull, with no greenery and no sky between buildings. Nanjing, in comparison, was a breath of fresh air. It was also a lot warmer (this was February) and I spent my first evening having food and drinks with colleagues outside Blue Frog in Xinjiekou. I knew, there and then, I would feel at home here. The apparent camaraderie between expats, the eclectic mix of nationalities, the crazy stories being told. … Everything was so exciting.

在首都,我感觉一切都是灰暗的、沉闷的,没有绿化,楼宇之间没有天空。相比之下,南京空气清新。天气也暖和了很多(当时是二月),我在新街口的蓝蛙外面和同事们一起吃喝玩乐,度过了我的第一个晚上。我知道,当场,我会在这里感到宾至如归。外国人之间明显的友情、不拘一格的国籍混合、讲述的疯狂故事。 ……一切都是那么令人兴奋。

My expectations of Nanjing and of what life would be like there were high, but the city constantly exceeded them. As I became more and more familiar with Jiangsu’s capital, my fondness for it grew exponentially. With years passing, and expat life in China being what it is, lots of people I had got to know left, I moved to different parts of the city, and so on. Many spots thus became associated with specific memories, and while I kept enjoying whatever the present was offering in the city, I also developed a certain nostalgia of bygone times. 

我对南京以及那里的生活抱有很高的期望,但这座城市不断超出我的期望。随着我对江苏省会越来越熟悉,我对它的好感也与日俱增。随着时间的推移,在中国的侨民生活已经成为现实,很多我认识的人都离开了,我搬到了城市的不同地方,等等。因此,许多景点都与特定的记忆联系在一起,当我继续享受这座城市所提供的一切时,我也对过去的时光产生了某种怀旧之情。

Being in Xinjiekou’s metro station always reminded me of my first few days, gaping at the sheer size of the station, and struggling to find the right exit from the multiple choices at exit 21.

来到新街口地铁站,总让我回想起刚到地铁的那几天,车站的庞大规模让我目瞪口呆,在21号出口的众多选择中苦苦寻找正确的出口。

Being anywhere in Xianlin reminded me of my first year and the fantastic group of people I shared it with. Potato Bistro in particular, having been our favourite haunt for a drink after work. Being at Nanjing South Railway Station or Nanjing Lukou International Airport would bring back countless memories of trips taken to this or that place, and mostly of the feeling I always had coming back, that I was home.

在仙林的任何地方都让我想起了我的第一年以及与我一起度过的一群出色的人。尤其是土豆小酒馆,它是我们下班后最喜欢去喝一杯的地方。在南京南站或南京禄口国际机场,我会回想起无数去过这个或那个地方的旅行的记忆,而且大部分都是我回来时总是有的感觉,那就是我回到了家。

As COVID is keeping me away from China, I often reminisce about all the things I loved about my life in Nanjing. Being stuck in a village where I know almost no one, which renders my social life virtually inexistent, I like to think about all my favourite socialising spots; Secco, Mai Pizza, Malt & Hop, Chaley or La Mia Casa to name just a few, that were all the theatre of many a memorable night. 

由于新冠疫情让我远离中国,我经常回忆起在南京生活中所有我喜欢的事情。被困在一个我几乎不认识任何人的村庄里,这使得我的社交生活几乎不存在,我喜欢思考所有我最喜欢的社交场所; Secco、Mai Pizza、Malt & Hop、Chaley 或 La Mia Casa 等等,这些都是许多难忘夜晚的舞台。

Being without a car in a place where there’s not a lot to do besides hiking, I miss both the ease of transportation and the variety of activities available in Nanjing. Going on a boat ride around Xuanwu Lake, throwing incense sticks in the giant burning pot at Jiming Temple, walking along the historic city wall, riding an e-bike along the scenic roads that surround the Purple Mountain area… and countless other things.

由于没有车,在一个除了徒步旅行之外没有什么可做的地方,我想念南京便利的交通和丰富多彩的活动。乘船环玄武湖,在鸡鸣寺的大锅里烧香,沿着历史悠久的城墙散步,骑着电动自行车沿着紫金山地区的风景区……等等。

Having to stay at my sister’s, I miss my spacious apartment overlooking the Olympic Stadium from the 23rd floor of a tower in a tranquil, leafy community next to Wanda Square, a convenient 7-minute walk from where I worked, with just about everything else I could need also within walking distance.

不得不住在姐姐家,我想念我宽敞的公寓,它位于一栋塔楼的 23 层,俯瞰着奥林匹克体育场,位于万达广场旁边一个宁静、绿树成荫的社区,距离我工作的地方只有 7 分钟步行路程,步行即可到达我需要的其他一切。

I have been stuck in France for about 6 months now, and even though I miss Nanjing immensely, I have accepted the fact that this chapter of my life is most likely finished. The virus situation is far from over, and I doubt China will generally reopen its borders to foreigners before next year. It’s too much time for me to just wait around. 

我在法国已经被困了大约六个月了,尽管我非常想念南京,但我已经接受了这样一个事实:我人生的这一章很可能已经结束了。病毒情况还远未结束,我怀疑中国在明年之前是否会普遍向外国人重新开放边境。对我来说,等待的时间太多了。

I had to come up with a plan B that was good enough to replace my previous situation. So I started teaching freelance online, mostly catering to French speakers, as I speak their language and am in their time zone. While this has yet to prove lucrative, I have no intention to stay in France and I started researching places I could relocate to once I start earning a sustainable income. Since most of my clients will be in a European time zone, I have to stay in Europe for convenience’s sake.

我必须想出一个足够好的B计划来取代我之前的情况。所以我开始在网上教授自由职业,主要是为了迎合讲法语的人,因为我说他们的语言并且处于他们的时区。虽然这还没有证明有利可图,但我无意留在法国,我开始研究一旦我开始赚取可持续收入就可以搬到的地方。由于我的大多数客户都位于欧洲时区,因此为了方便起见,我必须留在欧洲。

And I now find myself with a problem; no city seems to match up with the expectations Nanjing created. 

现在我发现自己遇到了一个问题;似乎没有一个城市能达到南京所创造的期望。

I love Italy, so I looked into Rome. Sure, the food is great, there’s amazing history and culture there, but it’s dirty, it stinks and there’s a fairly high amount of petty crime. Also, its tallest building is a rather uninspiring 30-floor residential tower on the outskirts of the city, which, for a skyscraper-loving guy like me, is rather dull.

我喜欢意大利,所以我去了罗马。当然,那里的食物很棒,那里有令人惊叹的历史和文化,但它又脏又臭,而且轻微犯罪率相当高。而且,它的最高建筑是位于城市郊区的一栋相当平淡的30层住宅楼,对于我这样一个喜欢摩天大楼的人来说,这是相当乏味的。

I studied German for 7 years, so I looked into Berlin, thinking I could capitalise on my German. Sure, it also has interesting history and it offers what some argue is the best nightlife in Europe. 

我学了七年德语,所以我去了柏林,认为我可以利用我的德语。当然,它也有有趣的历史,并且提供了一些人认为欧洲最好的夜生活。

But it’s not green enough, its parks look bland compared to those of Nanjing, and so does its architecture. The same goes for Vienna, and Zürich is just too expensive.

但它的绿化还不够,它的公园和南京的相比显得平淡无奇,它的建筑也是如此。维也纳也是如此,而苏黎世则太贵了。

The only city I can think of that somewhat matches up with Nanjing in terms of the balance I’m looking for is London, the city I originally sought to move to. 

在我所寻求的平衡方面,我能想到的唯一一个与南京有点匹配的城市是伦敦,这是我最初想要搬到的城市。

Like Nanjing, it boasts a beautiful marriage of old and new architecture that includes skyscrapers. Like Nanjing, it has many beautiful parks, and a major river flowing through the city. Like Nanjing, it has many quirky spots to eat or drink (although to be fair, London probably takes the lead in that respect, as well as with cultural activities on offer). 

与南京一样,它拥有新旧建筑的完美结合,其中包括摩天大楼。和南京一样,它有许多美丽的公园,还有一条流经城市的主要河流。与南京一样,它也有许多奇特的餐饮场所(尽管公平地说,伦敦在这方面可能处于领先地位,并提供文化活动)。

But unlike Nanjing, it doesn’t have a spotlessly clean metro system.  

但与南京不同的是,它没有一尘不染的地铁系统。

Unlike Nanjing, it doesn’t have a family-like network of tight-knit expats. Unlike Nanjing, it doesn’t have cheap transport or cheap housing. Unlike Nanjing, it doesn’t feel exotic. And most of all, unlike Nanjing, it isn’t home. 

与南京不同,它没有像家庭一样紧密的外籍人士网络。与南京不同,它没有廉价的交通或廉价的住房。与南京不同,没有异国情调的感觉。最重要的是,与南京不同,它不是家。

I have no doubt that I will be back in Nanjing, even if just to visit. My time living in the city may be over, but I will forever love it for the amazing collection of memories it gave me. Perhaps in the coming years, with time helping, another place will win over my heart, but as of right now, Nanjing ruined every other city for me. 

我毫不怀疑我会回到南京,即使只是为了参观。我在这座城市的生活可能已经结束,但我将永远热爱它,因为它给我带来了令人惊叹的回忆。也许在未来的几年里,随着时间的帮助,另一个地方会赢得我的心,但截至目前,南京对我来说毁了所有其他城市。