“How much is this?” I asked the shop keeper, holding a handmade leather bag. It smelled raw and felt smooth, styled rustically. It brought me back to Chiapas, in the mountains of southern Mexico. A place that, just as with Dali, celebrates its indigenous craft and culture.
“这个多少钱？” 我拿着一个手工皮包问店主。 它闻起来很生硬，感觉很光滑，风格很质朴。 它把我带回了墨西哥南部山区的恰帕斯州。 这个地方和大理一样，庆祝其本土工艺和文化。
The rest of my time in Dali was spent in absolute amazement at just how similar these two places are, yet they sit opposite each other on either sides of the world. Furthermore, at roughly the same elevation above sea level (around 2,000m), both Dali in Yunnan, China and San Cristobal Del Las Cases in Chiapas, Mexico, are situated in ancient locations at the foot of a valley surrounded by mountains.
我在大理的剩余时间里，对这两个地方的相似程度感到非常惊讶，但它们在世界两边都相对。 此外，在海拔大致相同的海拔（约2000米），中国云南的大理和墨西哥恰帕斯州的圣克里斯托瓦尔·德拉斯凯斯都位于被群山环绕的山谷脚下的古老位置。
Before 1253, Dali was the capital of the Bai Kingdom, and was known as Jumie. Situated between the plateaus of eastern Tibet and Yungui, it boasts a mild subtropical climate, while its Mexican counterpart sits in the Central Highlands enjoying mild subtropical conditions. Geographically, environmentally and culturally, the uncanny similarities between the two help restore faith in the theory that the ancient Mayan peoples of Chiapas indeed walked over from Africa, settled in Eurasia before migrating onto the Americas, from perhaps Dali itself.
在1253年之前，大理是白国的首都，被称为朱米。 它位于西藏东部和云桂的高原之间，拥有温和的亚热带气候，而墨西哥的对应气候位于中部高地，享有温和的亚热带条件。 在地理、环境和文化上，两者之间的不可思议的相似之处有助于恢复对基亚帕斯州古代玛雅人确实从非洲走过来，在移民到美洲之前定居在欧亚大陆的理论的信念，也许是从达利本身移民过来的。
It was a couple of days before Spring Festival when we arrived early in the evening. We plonked our bags and went out for a bite. The trip was long and tiring; 15 hours of travel helped our first Dali beers go down a treat. We had taken a flight from Nanjing to Kunming followed by a 3-hour wait at the airport before a 4-hour bus ride. Due to the time of year, prices for flights direct to Dali from Nanjing were astronomical.
春节前几天，我们傍晚很早就到了。 我们收拾好行李，出去吃了点东西。 这次旅行漫长而累人；15个小时的旅行帮助我们的第一杯大理啤酒成为一种享受。 我们乘坐了从南京飞往昆明的航班，然后在机场等了3个小时，然后坐了4个小时的公交车。 由于每年的时间，从南京直飞大理的航班价格是天文数字。
Known locally as Dali Old Town, it is distinctly different from Dali New Town, which is exactly as the name describes. Strolling down one of the Old Town’s main walking streets it is easy to see that, for once, the “ancient” buildings you see in front of you are indeed ancient. It feels old, it looks old and it smells old, omitting an aura of wisdom and tranquillity.
在当地被称为大理老城，它与大理新城截然不同，大理新城正如其名。 漫步在老城区的一条主要步行街上，很容易看到，这一次，你眼前看到的“古代”建筑确实很古老。 它感觉很老，看起来很老，闻起来很老，省略了智慧和宁静的光环。
Coming from Nanjing, we did not expect to be sunburnt on our first day. Beaming vitamin D and good vibes all over the city in spectacular sunlight that shines all day long, after sunset, a light jacket is needed in order to step out and enjoy Dali’s nightlife. Electronic music bars sit side by side reggae lounges and rock pubs, which all host live acts every single night, something Nanjing lacks.
来自南京，我们没想到第一天就晒伤了。 在灿烂的阳光下，整个城市都闪耀着维生素D和良好的氛围，日落后，需要一件轻薄的夹克才能走出去享受大理的夜生活。 电子音乐酒吧与雷鬼休息室和摇滚酒吧并排坐，每天晚上都举办现场表演，这是南京所缺乏的。
The Yunnan people of Dali are so chilled out that they seem a world away from their Northern workaholic countrymates. People can be seen lazing about in the sun outside cafés such as at corner favourite, Serendipity. They read, they play guitar, they chat and drink coffee or tea; they don’t seem stressed, they look happy and content, and it’s an infectious vibe.
大理的云南人如此冷静，以至于他们似乎与北方工作狂同胞们分开了世界。 可以看到人们在咖啡馆外的阳光下懒散，比如在角落最喜欢的Serendipity。 他们阅读、弹吉他、聊天、喝咖啡或茶；他们似乎没有压力，他们看起来快乐和满足，这是一种富有感染力的氛围。
After a few days of slowing down and living like a Dalian, we found our bodies and minds completely surrendering to this ancient town and its wise ways. In San Cristobal, pregnant women would make the pilgrimage there from all around the world in order to give birth; they make use of Mayan midwifery and bask in the area’s natural vibes. It is my suspicion that these ancient mountainous regions of the world have been fortunate enough to freeze the wisdom of the past that works at one with the environment by which it is surrounded.
经过几天的放慢脚步，像大连人一样生活，我们发现我们的身心完全屈服于这个古镇及其智慧之路。 在圣克里斯托瓦尔，为了生育，来自世界各地的孕妇会去那里朝圣；她们利用玛雅助产士，沐浴在该地区的自然氛围中。 我怀疑，世界上这些古老的山区有幸冻结了过去的智慧，这些智慧与周围环境融为一。
Dali is not immune, however, to the lure of capitalism, as the streets are filled with tourist traps. Although one can get a feeling for Yunnan cuisine anywhere one lives in China, the freshness in Dali is second to none. Drinking water flows from the mountains and down into the town, where it is used to wash organic vegetables that have been grown locally, and that sit outside restaurants for guests to select; a luxury not even the riches of Nanjing can afford.
然而，大理也不能幸免于资本主义的诱惑，因为街道上到处都是旅游陷阱。 虽然在中国任何地方都能感受到云南美食，但大理的新鲜度是首屈一指的。 饮用水从山上流到镇上，在那里用来清洗当地种植的有机蔬菜，这些蔬菜坐在餐厅外供客人选择；这种奢侈连南京的财富都买不起。
Dali is colourful, bright and a testament to local government efforts to preserve its ancient feel. Nearby is Erhai Lake, huge and surrounded by mountains and small villages. While a large part of its environs area is under construction, efforts to utilise Dali’s abundant sunlight it is evident in the public use of solar power.
大理色彩斑斓、明亮，证明了地方政府努力保留其古老的感觉。 附近有洱海湖，周围环绕着群山和小村庄。 虽然其周边地区的大部分地区正在建设中，但利用大理丰富的阳光的努力在太阳能的公共使用中显而易见。
Begrudgingly, we left Dali, making our way to the train station where we bordered a 7 hour sleeper train for Kunming. The gentle rocking of the train lulled us to sleep, where our dreams of a Dali life have solidified in our imaginations ever since.
我们不情愿地离开了大理，前往火车站，在那里我们与前往昆明的7小时卧铺列车接壤。 火车的轻轻摇晃让我们入睡，从那时起，我们对大理生活的梦想就在我们的想象中凝固了。
