With its roots in Wenzhou, before opening up in Hangzhou plus now, gratefully, Nanjing; and claiming no inspiration whatsoever from Culture Club, Kamakama is Nanjing’s answer to the sleek sophisticated cocktail bars of Shanghai. No 1912 mayhem here; instead it’s signature cocktails, selected fine wines and classic malts all the way, accompanied by über pasta and pizza and dub music over which it is blessedly possible to hold a conversation.