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Molecular Cooking in Olympiad

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Hidden behind a black door; no sign outside, just a window, a menu is visible. We push the door open and hear the click of metal on porcelain and soft jazz in the back ground. The restaurant opens into a small room, a bar and a kitchen surrounded in black.

The walls and furniture are black, the doors are black, the room is warm and exclusive; fresh rose petals strewn over tables suggest a romantic atmosphere. Our attentive waitress leads us to our seats and asks us to peruse the set menu. After we nod our approval, she signals to the chef to begin.

Attitude can seat a maximum of 16 people; we counted 6 tables, which were all full. “I’ve been trying to get a seat here for ages”, a customer sitting to our right told us, “It’s always booked”.

The restaurant was full of couples, swooning over each other at the bar or chatting over food and wine. Attitude offers one set menu only, which changes every 3 months. “I would rather focus on the quality of my food and enjoying my life, rather than catering to many many people everyday”, restaurant owner and resident chef, Kevin, told The Nanjinger.

Our set menu featured a light and summery selection of molecularly cooked morsels. Haute Cuisine’s newest trend is “food science”, that plays with the physical and chemical changes to ingredients that occur during the cooking process. “With this style of cooking we are able to hold on to a lot of the food’s most nutritious elements”, Kevin said.

At time of writing Attitude’s set menu went thus:

  • Hokkaido scallop with finger orange sauce
  • French egg cup (Japanese eggs)
  • Quinoa with assorted fruits and vegetables and crackle candy
  • Pickled salmon and Modena black vinegar
  • Chinese inspired crispy duck with crepe and sour soup
  • Wagyu tenderloin with mushrooms and mashed potato
  • Mango pane-cotta with fig

The accompanying molecular price tag? ¥388 per person.

Trained at the Le Cordon Blue Culinary Arts Academy in Shanghai, Chef Kevin admits that designing a Western menu for Chinese tastes is demanding. Yet, while he says it is difficult, he enjoys the challenge. “Most of my food is sourced locally and is fresh… I take great pride in the quality of my food”, he says.

Absolutely impressed therewith, The Nanjinger particularly enjoyed the explosion of flavours that was the duck and succulent melt-in-your-mouth, slow-cooked steak. Fresh summer inspired seafood and a light mango dessert completed the set beautifully.

Attitude is located at 126 Hengshan Lu 恒山路126号, just off of Lushan Lu, near Fraser Suites. Tel: 84481179 (Chinese language only). Book well in advance.

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