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Ghost Town; The Cemetery to 100,000 Political Martyrs

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Nanjing has a very long history; sadly due to numerous wars, revolutions and instability, a lot of that history is bloody. One of the better places to see this up close is Nanjing’s Martyrs’ Cemetery, and if you are lucky, or unlucky as the case may be, you may see something more than just beautiful scenery. 

The Memorial for Revolutionary Martyrs (雨花台烈士纪念馆) has long been regarded as spiritually important by Buddhist monks and locals, but according to some tourists and workers the ghosts of executed prisoners wander the hills and monuments of their resting places. 

Its original name was “Shizitang”, which roughly translates as Hillock of Small Stones. This name originated according to legend, from the Buddhist Master, Yunguang. When Yunguang was preaching in the 6th century, flowers fell from the sky; as they touched the ground they turned into beautiful stones. 

From this religious experience, stories of phantom lights and sounds, generally linked to the gods and spirits became fairly common. Due to the benevolence of the original legend, people regarded these as good omens. This was to change in the late 1920’s. 

In 1927 the Kuomintang gained control of the Chinese government. To cement its power, political enemies, particularly Communists, were arrested, held without trials, and executed. In Nanjing, the secluded hills of Shizitang became the main execution site. Officials estimated that 100,000 political prisoners and dissidents had been executed in the area while the Kuomintang was in control of Nanjing. Subsequently they made the entire 54 hectares into a national memorial and cemetery to the martyrs. 

It is unclear when the first sightings of ghost occurred. So many people moved in and out of Nanjing at that time, building the monuments that dot the cemetery that early ghostly phenomena could easily be forgotten or overlooked. But the workers and a few visitors today say that spirits of the dead do not all rest peacefully. 

Throughout the cemetery people, mostly security and caretakers who work alone in the early morning and late evening, have heard and seen things that seem to defy rational science. Cold spots are a frequent occurrence, causing tourists to complain of faulty AC in buildings that are not even cooled. Faint moans and screams have also been heard by people. On some occasions people start feeling an intense fear that either leaves them paralyzed for several seconds or fleeing an unknown terror. 

The West Execution Area seems to be the most likely place to hear phantom sounds at night. Security guards will report hearing what sound like firecrackers within a hundred meters or so of the tombs. New guards will usually assume it a prank by some vandals, and go to investigate. When they arrive at the area, there is no smell of gunpowder, no smoke and no people. 

One guard was in sight of the West Execution Area tombs when the noise was heard. He said that he could hear crying and what sounded like prayers and pleas for mercy. When ghostly gunshots rang out, he ran. 

Tourists seem most likely to encounter spirits in the Martyrs’ Revolutionary Historical Deeds’ Exhibition Hall. According to some students who have visited the building they felt like they were being watched, even when no one was in sight. Others have reported to guards that someone kept tugging at their clothes, mostly their wrists and legs. Yet they were the only people in the room. Some have said that a faint radio was distracting them, and it should either be turned up or off, then do not believe the workers when told there is not a radio in the building. One woman even ran out of the building, screaming that a shadowy figure was watching her from a dark corner of the room. When a worker ran inside to confront at the stranger, no one was there. 

The Revolutionary Martyrs’ Dying Place, has several stories that are even more chilling. A caretaker was sweeping up some leaves at dawn, when a man who was bloody and badly beaten crawled into view. The person seemed to be trying to talk, but was eerily silent. As the woman cautiously moved forward to try to help, he vanished. She also said that other caretakers would sometimes smell gunpowder, but they could never find the source and after a minute or two the smell would stop instantly. 

It is hard for a foreigner to learn about these stories, but with persistence it is possible to learn about these ghostly occurrences. For those interested in the paranormal, it’s well worth the trip to visit the Martyrs’ Cemetery. For those less spirit-oriented, it remains a beautiful place to visit. 

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